I set the page size in Illustrator to accommodate all the components (including the background flames behind the top window). This worked out to a page size of approximately 36 x 48 inches. I was fortunate enough to have access to a large plotter, so I was spared from taping together several 8 1/2 x 11 sheets.

A scalpel and ruler made quick work of the sectioning. To get a first hand look at the full sized case plan, I took all the panels off the case (front, sides and top), then taped each paper template to its corresponding location.

So far, so good.

With a functional, full-scale design, it was now time to gather all the necessary materials. I had some spare wood and sandpaper, so I was able to start with the small logos right away. I wouldn't need the paint until the end, but I knew I had some left over from other projects. Since the flames were rather detailed, I planned to use an airbrush kit - I rationalized that spray cans might produce undesired bleeding on the design perimeter, depending on how I did the masking. Once I received the Lexan Plexiglas, I had everything I needed.

Section A

I had 2 locations on the case for my logo, but the sizes would differ slightly. I wanted to keep this project on an affordable budget, so I felt that seeking a laser cutting service for metal would not be practical. I was able to find help at the local college using a CNC router for my main window designs, but unfortunately, the logos were too small for the machine to handle without bending or warping the metal.. Cutting the design myself in wood was the next best alternative.

I've done scroll work in the past, so there were no problems with wood preparation. I attached the template with spray-on adhesive and drilled the holes where necessary. Luckily, I could use one of my old spiral blades, allowing me to cut in any direction. The letters were particularly difficult to navigate, but I was able to shape them sufficiently.

The adhesive was strong enough to hold the paper in place as I worked, but was easily removed upon completion. With some light sanding and filing, the wood was then ready for protyping.

Section B

Using Adobe Illustrator and AutoCad2002 I prepared the logo designs for cutting. Dimensions were added for double checking. This screen shot includes dimensions, but the designs I used were pure line diagrams that I attached to the wood and scrolled out.

After waiting a year for events to allow this project to progress, it was time to take the case in for cutting. I felt it would be beneficial to use my templates to transfer the designs to the metal. This would make cutting easier and double checking faster.

With the case removed, the computer was simply frame and components - worth taking a few more shots and enjoying the open air CD-ROM mod.

The modded CD-ROM unit holds 35 blank CDs at any one time and functions as a simple, lighted holder that will eject the tray for access to a new blank.

After the cutting tests were complete and I was satisfied with the window, I brought in the rest of my case material and had them all machined according to the specifications that were now in the computer.

I took the pieces home and put everything together to get an idea of what it was shaping up to look like. I was quite pleased with the results and was ready to do some filing and touchups. Another step on the horizon would be completely dismanteling the case, taking out the motherboard, and fitting the plexiglas.

When the side design was cut, there was little room to spare, so in an effort to achieve the positioning I wanting, I had to sacrifice a screw hole for the venturi. Since I still needed the cut window for mounting on the other side, it had to be brazed with brass, then finished up with some auto-filler called Glayze. After a light sand, it was ready for painting.

To add more color and light to my case, I prepared to install an Antec tri-light LED fan on the top of the case. This fan would be mounted inside the top plexiglas, under the Design Tech logo.

Towards the bottom of the case, the plan was to have a single cold cathode tube of blue light, 12 inches long. This would run along the bottom, just under the opening of the blade window. Light produced would be sufficient to illuminate the interior. A PCI slot mounted switch would control whether the light was continuously on, or pulsating to music.

An orange cathode tube, lighting the back in these images, will actually be mounted vertically along the back of the case beside the mainboard. A slot will be cut in the side and in the side panel so that the light can backlight the right side.

Conceptual Backlighting

These pictures show the two main lighting accessories (fan and cold cathode) without power. The LED fan is clear for better light transfer, and the light tube will be attached to the case in that approximate position, but laying flat and shining towards the mainboard.

The side piece will have high-output, red LEDs shining towards the outer edges. 5 LEDs have been mounted inside the plexiglas cutout.

To increase the impact of the case lighting, I decided that a mirror on the bottom would make things interesting. The mirror was measured, then cut to fit around the edges. The white, protective covering is still attached in the images.


To get the right amount of power going to the lights, some resistors had to be added and everything was attached to this board and tested before the lights were put in the glass. The LEDs projected much light.


With the metal on and the plexiglas lit from inside, the design was ready to be previewed in total darkness.




Luckily, the light was uniform around the entire design, and the LEDs emitted enough light to outline the design and give it a new dimension. Attaching everything would be the next challenge.


At this point, the plexiglas was installed and all the lights were hooked up and placed in their approximate positions. Currently, there are 2 LED fans (tri-light on top, blue in back), 2 cathode light bars (blue on far side, orange on bottom), and the red LEDs inside the CD-ROM mod.

The lighting is seen more now with the addition of the mirror on the bottom. The room in the case seems to have expanded and the reflections are better.



The blue LED fan has added some needed brightness to the back middle section of the case. It can be seen from the back and the top.



In this shot the round modding cables can be seen, as well as some of the bottom PCI cards. There is a plan in the works to possibly paint the CPU vent (outside) chrome so that it looks better from outside the window. It would be left green inside, since that color seems to offset the other colors in a positive way.

In order to fit the plexiglas, the entire computer had to be completely stripped of all parts and accessories. The power supply and the motherboard were removed, leaving only the frame and the CD-ROM bays.

The plexiglas would be attached to the top, but in order to ensure that it would fit under the top and not be displaced by the existing metal of the drive bays, there was some cutting to be done. Using a circular saw blade, parts of the top and the drive bay were cut and filed to make more room.

The side panel with the 'blade' window needed some touchup. The bottom rail inside the panel that rests on the frame was partly visible from the front, and would block the placing of the plexiglas. This was cut away in a small section.

The last few pictures show the work that was done on the top of the frame to remove excess metal. At this point, thoughts were turned to the other side for the lighting attachment and side mount.

A lighting tube that would be powered internally from the PSU was planned to be mounted inside, facing out the other side. A slot would have to be cut in the side frame and the side door, just under the 'blade' insert. A solid block of plexiglas was measured and trimmed on the table saw in order to produce 45 degree angles for the light. This piece was also filed to remove scratches.

Afer more cutting this piece would be mounted under the 'blade' and would be fitted with a slot for the light tube. The idea was to have the light shine into the block, and disperse the light from behind the 'blade'. Orange light would then be seen from the outer edges. (See step 7 for the conceptual image of the lighting)

Mounting the blade was another step. A round piece of plexiglas was turned on the lathe and polished slightly. Three pieces would be attached as spacers for the 'blade'.

After much thought, it was decided that another approach would be taken for backlighting the 'blade'. Because the electronics of the lighting tube were rated with high voltage, mounting such a unit close to the motherboard was thought not to be the best idea. Instead, the tube would be mounted at the bottom of the case, lighting the motherboard, and LEDs would be used behind the 'blade' instead.

Two large pieces of plexiglas were cut on the scrollsaw, then sanded with different sized spindle sanding attachments. The outside edges were touched up on the belt sander. These pieces would fit behind the 'blade', and serve as a spacer, mount, and housing for the LEDs. Each LED would be mounted inside the plexiglas, and would shine out the matt-finished edges.



Using a large piece of plexiglas, the next step was to fit this cover on the top of the case, just under the cut-out frame. It was positioned, marked, then cut on the band saw to fit the customized top frame. For precision, the edges were filed. The plexiglas slides in the back and snaps into the front end snugly. Because the design allowed for a circular logo, my plan was to incorporate my lighted fan into this.

After measuring the exact location for the hole, a hole saw blade on the drill press was used to cut the air hole. Screws would secure the fan to the bottom of the plexiglas, but would have to be recessed slightly in order to have enough grip on the fan.

Test drills were done in a small plexiglas scrap for the exact depth, then in the final product. With everything prepped, the fan was ready to be attached. (Note: the black fan in the pictures was for prototype purposes only; the clear lighted fan will be substituted later.)




To secure the plexiglas door to the side, small metal holders were made and then slipped under the existing lip of the door. The vent flange was trimmed for the window design, and screwed to the plexiglas.

Completion of the case mod would follow a series of hook up steps and fine tuning. Ideas are always forming and will be incorporated into the final design.

The mechanics were tested in full and the lights got their final placement before everything was properly assembled.

My original design had the case painted with black flames and a solid black face. As I progressed with the silver sparkle paint, I realized that I wanted to simplify the design and leave the lights as the enhancement feature. As is, the design has enough visual interest and I decided the flames would be too busy and competitive.

Even the back has something to offer with its two, tri-light fans - one rainbow and the other blue.

These next three shots show the case with the power supply intact. This is the new one I bought, but I felt that the area it covered from the top view was too limiting and cut the design into thirds with that area plain.

My decision was to mod the power supply, so off came the top and in went a tri-light, rainbow fan. The plexiglas on the top keeps the PSU sealed and provides an inside look into the inner workings of the unit.

My custom logo takes center stage on the top of the box, sporting the hand cut design I did on the scroll saw in plexiglas. Air flow from the tri-light fan below cools the box by venting air upwards.

The CD-ROM mod was another marvel in itself. This tray can handle 35 discs and is the perfect storage place for blanks. It takes up 2 bays with its dual mirror-plexiglas front and can be opened by the custom, red lighted switch. Illumination comes from the 6 LEDs mounted behind the CDs. These shine straight towards the front of the case, through the stack of CDs.

The final result is a box bright enough to light up any room. The cold cathode tubes project a great deal of light - perfect for those late night LAN gaming sessions.

CD-ROM Mod Steps!

To see the entire process from start to finish, click here.